There’s one thing to do in Bagan – look at temples. So that’s what we did! For two days we pushed through the vendors at the most popular temples and crept through the eerily quite ones, occasionally having to seek out ‘the keyholder’ to unlock them for us. Since we were visiting in low season, even the most popular temples had few visitors.
Entering into a new temple you never knew what you were going to find. Sometimes monks would be praying to buddhas, another time an old woman plugged a bare lightbulb in with an extension cord and carried it around the dark temple so we could see the ancient wall paintings. Other times you climbed through musky dark passages and up stairs until you were rewarded with a view of the landscape scattered with hundreds of more temples.